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Meet the Maker - Tracy Caldah

Posted on 24 Oct 06:00

For our final installment of Meet the Maker we speak to Tracy Caldah about her degree collection 'Ruin and Redemption'. We loved the sculptural feel to this collection and the imaginative design. Tracy's use of playful, contemporary materials and experiments with scale combine to create a wearable art collection.

Tracy Caldah for New Designers exhibition at Diana Porter Jewellery Bristol

 

When did you start creating jewellery?

The transformation of my sculptures into jewellery began when my mentor, in a moment of inspiration, wore one of my large cardboard maquettes as a necklace. The scale was audacious, but it sparked my imagination. This marked the exciting onset of my final making project.

Tracy Caldah for New Designers exhibition at Diana Porter Jewellery Bristol

Who inspires you the most? 

Iris Van Herpen left an indelible mark on me during my final term. Seeing her astonishing work in Paris, March 2024, was a game changer. How can someone transform brass umbrella rods, a mundane material, into stunning, fluid creations? It's beyond imagination.

Equally impressive is Maria Bartuszová, whose plaster sculptures are a testament to the beauty and versatility of everyday materials. Her work is not only visually appealing but also has a tangible, tactile quality that I deeply appreciate.

Sheng Zhang, a phenomenal contemporary jeweller and silversmith, inspired me to lean into using Jesmonite, a composite material, alongside precious metals. His enlightening lecture at my college was a pivotal moment. When he mentioned his collection, ‘Off-Vertical,’ housed at the V&A and composed of silver and Jesmonite, it was like a spark lit within me. That was the moment I made a firm decision about the direction I wanted to take in my work.

Tracy Caldah for New Designers exhibition at Diana Porter Jewellery Bristol

 What was the inspiration for the jewellery in the exhibition?

The essence of my jewellery designs springs from my own physical form, captured in the sketches from my life model sessions at the local Hereford theatre. Using these artist impressions as my muse, I've distilled their essence into exciting, color-blocked shapes in my sketchbook.

My choice of materials - Jesmonite, shattered ceramics, and tumble dryer lint - encapsulate moments of feeling fragmented, discarded, and unnoticed. It's a shared human experience that resonates with many. These ‘Glimmers’, within this collection called Ruin and Redemption, are a tribute to our inherent value and significance, irrespective of our emotional state. The dash of 24-carat gold leaf is a glittering testament to the golden potential within us all.

If you weren’t a jeweller what would choose as a career?

In the absence of my love for jewellery making, I'd still find myself in the realm of design. My past experiences in social care, youth work, and education have cemented my love for people and the fulfilment that comes with lending a hand. However, the act of creation is where I find my truest self-expression. My aspiration is that the art I create brings joy and positivity to those who encounter it.

Tracy Caldah for New Designers exhibition at Diana Porter Jewellery Bristol

Please can you tell us a bit about your creative process?

Often, my creations are a reflection of my personal experiences or emotions I'm navigating at the time. While I used to shy away from this, fearing it may come off as self-centered, I've come to understand and embrace the fact that many artists' works are deeply personal, and mine is no exception. I take pride in my approach, sketching out ideas, photographing captivating sights, and documenting them in my sketchbook. Drawing inspiration from other artists, both their concepts and methodologies, fuels my creative process. For this particular collection, I even incorporated other artists' interpretations of my body as a foundation. I then delve into my workshop to experiment, sample, and explore until I feel prepared to bring my vision to life.

Tracy Caldah for New Designers exhibition at Diana Porter Jewellery Bristol

What are you listening to?

I love listening to the Material Matters podcast, I’m always interested in trying new materials and get so inspired by these talks.

I also have just finished Father Richard Rohr’s book, The Naked Now on audible which I’m still trying to understand but it’s a mind stretching kind of book.

I’m also halfway through listening to the Lord of the Rings as I couldn’t get through the first chapter or so reading it myself!

Tracy Caldah for New Designers exhibition at Diana Porter Jewellery Bristol

What’s next for you?

I’m at full speed this month and next, I have sculptures in Clerkenwell, London with Fritz Fryer Lighting for London Design Festival that starts Saturday 14th September. I’m in a local collective called EclectiV and we’re taking part in h.Art a local county wide art trail  in Herefordshire where I live, where I’ll have an array of work from rings to prints to sculpture from across the 3 years of the degree and previous work. This starts Saturday 7th to Sunday 15th September.

Then a month exhibition at the Hereford Courtyard with most of my peers from my degree, showing our graduation work and joining us will be the life drawing artists and their work.

 Tracy Caldah for New Designers exhibition at Diana Porter Jewellery Bristol

What’s next for your brand?

My vision is to craft a series of sculptures, intimately linked with jewellery pieces. These aren't just objects, but a deeply personal journey, a tribute to my father. His signet ring, cuff links, tie pin and even his ashes will be part of this creation. Should the funding materialize, I plan to document the entire journey, with a dear friend who specializes in grief and loss providing insightful dialogue. My aspiration is to premiere this film on National Grief Day 2025, providing a platform of support for viewers.

I'm convinced that art and creativity can be a powerful healing force during grief. The funding would also enable others to create their own tribute sculptures, intertwining their loved ones' ashes and cherished items. As the artist, I would lend my expertise, and my friend would provide emotional support.

These art pieces will be exhibited for a time but eventually find their home with my family. This is more than just a project, it's a testament to the power of love, loss, and the transformative ability of art.

Which is your favourite piece?

Choosing a favorite among my designs is a tall order! Each shape carries its own distinctive charm and the process is always a thrilling journey of discovery until the Jesmonite cures. Still, if I had to choose, the 'D' shape holds a special place in my heart.

Tracy Caldah for New Designers exhibition at Diana Porter Jewellery Bristol

Finally, for fun, what would be your dream piece to make or person to make for?

As for muses, I found myself captivated by Anne Hathaway while leafing through a magazine at the dentist's office. She's a remarkable woman and I've probably seen all her films. I'd be thrilled to craft an awe-inspiring necklace for her to sport at a grand movie premiere. Imagine pairing it with an ethereal Iris Van Herpen dress! It would require a harmonious collaboration to ensure the pieces truly complement each other.

Tracy's Collection is available to shop as part of The New Designers Exhibition will be live in-store at Diana Porter Jewellery.

Featuring the talented Graduate collections of Angela Strachan, Imogen Moran, Militsa Milenkova, Olivia Forrest, Rachael Plassard & Tracy Caldah.

33 Park Street Bristol, BS1 5NH. Mon-Saturday 9.30-5.00